Oil|Oil News and Videos
Feb
25
Filed Under (Automotive) by oil
gregchapman asked:
There was a time when everybody changed their own oil. Now just nearly half of U.S. vehicle owners do their own repair and maintenance. By learning to change your own oil, you can save roughly a hundred dollars a year and maybe more.
Before you get started, there are important oil disposal laws you must understand otherwise you could be fined by the EPA fines that go as high as six figures. The days of digging a hole in the back yard and pouring dirty oil into it are long gone. Environmental authorities suggest you pour old oil into a clean plastic container and take it to a service dealer or facility that offers oil-collection services. Call your state or local used-oil program for locations of collection centers. Call 1-800-424-9346 for a list of state oil-recycling contacts or write to Resource Conservation and Recovery Docket, 401 M St., S.W., Washington, DC 20460.
Now, if you’re still interested in tackling this task yourself, Edmunds has created a Do-It Yourself List. To start, here is a list of tools and things you’ll need to perform this procedure:
* a 3/8-drive socket set (metric will work for both)
* a combination wrench set (closed- and open-ended, metric)
* an oil filter wrench
* something to catch the old oil — an oil pan, a used kitchen basin, a kid’s pail
* a couple of empty one gallon milk containers with screw-on lids.
* a funnel and a one quart Ziploc baggie
* a lot of old newspapers and several dirty rags
* presoiled work clothes and, if you have long hair, a baseball cap
* two pair surgical gloves (optional; no, we won’t ask you to cough)
* a new oil filter (see vehicle’s owner’s manual for requirements)
* enough oil to refill the engine (check back page of owner’s manual for grade and number of quarts); we recommend name brands, such as Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil, etc.
STEP ONE: Before you do anything, pick out a flat spot on your driveway. Now take your car for a drive around the neighborhood. We do this to heat the oil and make it nice and thin, so it will drain more completely from the engine block. Drive the vehicle far enough and long enough so that the temperature gauge begins to register. If you don’t have a temp gauge, or if you have gauges but they’re broken, turn on the heater and drive until your feet get toasty. The engine is now warm. Park it in your pre-chosen spot.
STEP TWO: Turn off the engine, put the car in gear, and set the parking brake firmly. For safety, block the tires with several bricks or large rocks. Go in the house and put on your dirty clothes and cap. Come out and line up your tools.
Now slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug. If there isn’t enough room to slide under, you may have to jack up the car to get beneath it. Raise the car with a hydraulic pump and settle it on jackstands. CAUTION: Never get under a car held aloft only by a jack. Always use jackstands.
O.K., now locate the drain plug. It should be about the closest thing to the ground, a fairly large nut with a slim washer under it. Sometimes it will even be labeled “drain plug.” (Caution: Make sure you’re not looking at the transmission drain plug. It’s usually a larger nut. If not sure, feel the metal around it. The metal around the engine oil plug should be a lot hotter than around the trans plug. If still not sure, call a friend.) Find your socket set and pull out several sockets that look about the same size as the nut until you find one that fits over it.
STEP THREE: If you have them, put on your surgical gloves to keep your hands clean. Grab the socket wrench and put the correct-sized socket on it. Place it over the nut and turn it counter-clockwise. It won’t budge? Try again — really put some force into it this time. If it still won’t dislodge after several tries, locate the same sized closed-end wrench and use that instead. After you get the nut cracked, work it slightly loose with your fingers. Not too loose, though — you don’t want oil all over the place.
STEP FOUR: Now take the newspaper and spread it under the car. Make sure to cover where the oil filter sticks out, because it drips after removal. Look up into the engine. See the oil filter? It looks like a miniature, upside-down version of the mountain from “Close Encounters of the Third Kind.” Get the drain pan (or kitchen basin, or kid’s pail) and slide it under the drain plug. Position it so the stream hits it just right (if the plug points to the side and not straight down, the oil will shoot out sideways like from a fire hydrant). Loosen the plug and set it aside. Most of the oil will drain in about two minutes.
STEP FIVE: Locate the oil filter wrench. Take the socket off the socket wrench and set it next to the drain plug. Slip the oil filter wrench onto the socket wrench. You’ll probably want to use the short extension, too. The oil filter wrench is like a round dog collar that only chokes in one direction. Set it up to “grab” or “choke” counterclockwise. Slip it over the oil filter and give it a tug. It shouldn’t be that tight. When you feel it give, loosen it a little more, then slide the wrench off and do the rest by hand. Careful — it has hot oil in it! Make sure your face is not under it. Remove it all the way and pour the contents into the drain pan. Set the used oil filter right-side-up on the newspaper.
STEP SIX: Slide out, open the hood (if you haven’t already) and remove the oil filler cap. Set it aside. This will help the oil drain a little easier. O.K., take a breather.
Now, here’s the deal. If you’re in a hurry, you can dive right in and finish the oil change. But think about it. Drops of dirty oil are still dripping down. Personally, we like to give it a good hour to drain completely. They don’t do that in the quick-lube places. If you have the time, peel off your gloves and take a break. Grab a bite, drink some soda, watch the tube.
STEP SEVEN: O.K., you’re back. Put your gloves on and get to work. Before you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post. When it’s finger-tight, either tighten it by hand if you’re strong enough (it takes about one-half to three-quarters of a turn, no more: read the instructions on the filter), or flip the oil filter wrench over on the socket wrench and tighten it that way.
STEP EIGHT: We recommend using a new sealing washer on the drain plug. Put the washer in place and thread the drain plug back into its hole. Scooch it up tight with the socket set, but not so tight that you can’t get it off the next time (remember your struggles earlier; better to have it snug but not stripped.) Now take the oil drain pan and the empty milk bottle and the funnel. If you have a friend, have him hold the bottle while you pour the oil into it. When most of the oil has found the bottom of the bottle, seal it with the lid, then wipe out the inside of the funnel with a clean rag. (We sometimes prop the drain pan against a wall and let it continue to drip into the bottle while we do the next step. You’ll need an extra funnel to do this.)
STEP NINE: Set the cleaned funnel into the oil filler hole and pour in as many quarts as the manufacturer recommends. As the oil fills, begin cleaning up. Throw the newspapers in the trash and wipe down all your tools. Discard the empty oil containers in a recycling bin. After the oil is all in, twist the oil cap back on and check the dipstick for oil level, just to make sure. Take the old oil filter, place it in the Ziploc bag, and seal it.
STEP TEN: Start the engine and let it idle for about five minutes, looking for leaks. Place the milk container and the Ziploc bag in a box, and set it somewhere in the car where it can’t tip over. Drive to the nearest oil recycling center (as we discussed, most of the national chains, such as Econo Lube N’ Tune, Jiffylube, Grease Monkey, etc., will take your old oil and filters). Take a last look underneath for leaks.
BERNARDO
There was a time when everybody changed their own oil. Now just nearly half of U.S. vehicle owners do their own repair and maintenance. By learning to change your own oil, you can save roughly a hundred dollars a year and maybe more.
Before you get started, there are important oil disposal laws you must understand otherwise you could be fined by the EPA fines that go as high as six figures. The days of digging a hole in the back yard and pouring dirty oil into it are long gone. Environmental authorities suggest you pour old oil into a clean plastic container and take it to a service dealer or facility that offers oil-collection services. Call your state or local used-oil program for locations of collection centers. Call 1-800-424-9346 for a list of state oil-recycling contacts or write to Resource Conservation and Recovery Docket, 401 M St., S.W., Washington, DC 20460.
Now, if you’re still interested in tackling this task yourself, Edmunds has created a Do-It Yourself List. To start, here is a list of tools and things you’ll need to perform this procedure:
* a 3/8-drive socket set (metric will work for both)
* a combination wrench set (closed- and open-ended, metric)
* an oil filter wrench
* something to catch the old oil — an oil pan, a used kitchen basin, a kid’s pail
* a couple of empty one gallon milk containers with screw-on lids.
* a funnel and a one quart Ziploc baggie
* a lot of old newspapers and several dirty rags
* presoiled work clothes and, if you have long hair, a baseball cap
* two pair surgical gloves (optional; no, we won’t ask you to cough)
* a new oil filter (see vehicle’s owner’s manual for requirements)
* enough oil to refill the engine (check back page of owner’s manual for grade and number of quarts); we recommend name brands, such as Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil, etc.
STEP ONE: Before you do anything, pick out a flat spot on your driveway. Now take your car for a drive around the neighborhood. We do this to heat the oil and make it nice and thin, so it will drain more completely from the engine block. Drive the vehicle far enough and long enough so that the temperature gauge begins to register. If you don’t have a temp gauge, or if you have gauges but they’re broken, turn on the heater and drive until your feet get toasty. The engine is now warm. Park it in your pre-chosen spot.
STEP TWO: Turn off the engine, put the car in gear, and set the parking brake firmly. For safety, block the tires with several bricks or large rocks. Go in the house and put on your dirty clothes and cap. Come out and line up your tools.
Now slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug. If there isn’t enough room to slide under, you may have to jack up the car to get beneath it. Raise the car with a hydraulic pump and settle it on jackstands. CAUTION: Never get under a car held aloft only by a jack. Always use jackstands.
O.K., now locate the drain plug. It should be about the closest thing to the ground, a fairly large nut with a slim washer under it. Sometimes it will even be labeled “drain plug.” (Caution: Make sure you’re not looking at the transmission drain plug. It’s usually a larger nut. If not sure, feel the metal around it. The metal around the engine oil plug should be a lot hotter than around the trans plug. If still not sure, call a friend.) Find your socket set and pull out several sockets that look about the same size as the nut until you find one that fits over it.
STEP THREE: If you have them, put on your surgical gloves to keep your hands clean. Grab the socket wrench and put the correct-sized socket on it. Place it over the nut and turn it counter-clockwise. It won’t budge? Try again — really put some force into it this time. If it still won’t dislodge after several tries, locate the same sized closed-end wrench and use that instead. After you get the nut cracked, work it slightly loose with your fingers. Not too loose, though — you don’t want oil all over the place.
STEP FOUR: Now take the newspaper and spread it under the car. Make sure to cover where the oil filter sticks out, because it drips after removal. Look up into the engine. See the oil filter? It looks like a miniature, upside-down version of the mountain from “Close Encounters of the Third Kind.” Get the drain pan (or kitchen basin, or kid’s pail) and slide it under the drain plug. Position it so the stream hits it just right (if the plug points to the side and not straight down, the oil will shoot out sideways like from a fire hydrant). Loosen the plug and set it aside. Most of the oil will drain in about two minutes.
STEP FIVE: Locate the oil filter wrench. Take the socket off the socket wrench and set it next to the drain plug. Slip the oil filter wrench onto the socket wrench. You’ll probably want to use the short extension, too. The oil filter wrench is like a round dog collar that only chokes in one direction. Set it up to “grab” or “choke” counterclockwise. Slip it over the oil filter and give it a tug. It shouldn’t be that tight. When you feel it give, loosen it a little more, then slide the wrench off and do the rest by hand. Careful — it has hot oil in it! Make sure your face is not under it. Remove it all the way and pour the contents into the drain pan. Set the used oil filter right-side-up on the newspaper.
STEP SIX: Slide out, open the hood (if you haven’t already) and remove the oil filler cap. Set it aside. This will help the oil drain a little easier. O.K., take a breather.
Now, here’s the deal. If you’re in a hurry, you can dive right in and finish the oil change. But think about it. Drops of dirty oil are still dripping down. Personally, we like to give it a good hour to drain completely. They don’t do that in the quick-lube places. If you have the time, peel off your gloves and take a break. Grab a bite, drink some soda, watch the tube.
STEP SEVEN: O.K., you’re back. Put your gloves on and get to work. Before you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post. When it’s finger-tight, either tighten it by hand if you’re strong enough (it takes about one-half to three-quarters of a turn, no more: read the instructions on the filter), or flip the oil filter wrench over on the socket wrench and tighten it that way.
STEP EIGHT: We recommend using a new sealing washer on the drain plug. Put the washer in place and thread the drain plug back into its hole. Scooch it up tight with the socket set, but not so tight that you can’t get it off the next time (remember your struggles earlier; better to have it snug but not stripped.) Now take the oil drain pan and the empty milk bottle and the funnel. If you have a friend, have him hold the bottle while you pour the oil into it. When most of the oil has found the bottom of the bottle, seal it with the lid, then wipe out the inside of the funnel with a clean rag. (We sometimes prop the drain pan against a wall and let it continue to drip into the bottle while we do the next step. You’ll need an extra funnel to do this.)
STEP NINE: Set the cleaned funnel into the oil filler hole and pour in as many quarts as the manufacturer recommends. As the oil fills, begin cleaning up. Throw the newspapers in the trash and wipe down all your tools. Discard the empty oil containers in a recycling bin. After the oil is all in, twist the oil cap back on and check the dipstick for oil level, just to make sure. Take the old oil filter, place it in the Ziploc bag, and seal it.
STEP TEN: Start the engine and let it idle for about five minutes, looking for leaks. Place the milk container and the Ziploc bag in a box, and set it somewhere in the car where it can’t tip over. Drive to the nearest oil recycling center (as we discussed, most of the national chains, such as Econo Lube N’ Tune, Jiffylube, Grease Monkey, etc., will take your old oil and filters). Take a last look underneath for leaks.
BERNARDO
Sep
01
Filed Under (Automotive) by oil
Tim Kraines asked:
There are many places you can go to get your oil changed. Most of the places are not too expensive, but they are often busy, and it is hard to get to the shop when you are busy working. If you are interested in changing your car’s oil yourself, there are things you should know. First of all most cars are pretty much the same in this regard. If you have changed one car’s oil you can probably change it in most cars. While the oil pan may be located in a different area of each individual model it is generally on the bottom of the vehicle. Below are a few tips that will help you make this task easier.
You will need at least six quarts of oil. Preferably you should use the same type of oil as you had in the engine before.
You will also need to purchase a new oil filter designed specifically for the model of your car.
During an oil change most people also change the air filters on their cars. The air filter tends to become dirty in about the same time as the oil needs changing, especially on older model vehicles. Therefore it may not be a bad idea to purchase an air filter as well.
If you have not done any prior work on the vehicle at home, you will need to purchase a car jack or tire racks. These racks allow you to drive up on them to elevate the front end of the car where you will be working. If you are using a jack or the racks you will need to place blocks behind the other two tires to keep the car from rolling because the parking brakes do not always hold the grip reliably.Make sure that the parking brakes are on and that the transmission is in park position. You need to elevate the car so that the oil will run out of the oil pan completely as well as make it easier for you to reach the oil pan.
Prepare a canister or a pan to catch the oil in. Most auto parts shops including those online will have oil pans that you can drain the oil into. These pans have a special design to make disposing of the oil into an oil drum easy.
You will also need an oil filter wrench. This wrench must be the correct wrench for the size of filter you have. There are many sizes depending on the type of car you have.Another tool you will need is the wrench for the oil pan nut. This nut has to be removed to let the oil escape. This is usually a metric or standard wrench depending on who manufactured your car. The best tool for this job is a socket wrench.
Once you have all of the tools and other items you will need to locate the oil pan. It is best to look in your car’s manual for this information. Keep plenty of towels on hand as well.
First, loosen the nut on the oil pan, making sure that you are prepared for the first gush of oil by having the waste pan underneath the oil pan.
Next, locate the oil fill cap and remove it. Some manuals may tell you to do this first. I have found that this creates more of a gush if you wait to remove the hexagonal nut after, so the potential for a spill is higher.
Once you have gotten the oil flowing out of the vehicle you can then set a bucket just under the oil filter. There will be a little oil drainage from the filter so having the bucket under there will help keep you from causing a spill. Once you have removed the old filter you can then ***** on the new filter following the instructions on the box.
Now that you have removed all of the oil from your vehicle you will need to make sure that you replace the hexagonal nut on the oil pan and make sure that the oil filter is screwed on tight. Then, you can begin replacing the oil. It is best to fill the engine with at least four quarts of oil and then let it settle. Check the engine oil level and then add a quart until it is full. Check with your manual on the exact amount of oil required for the engine.
Source: http://www.abccarparts.com/
DEVIN
There are many places you can go to get your oil changed. Most of the places are not too expensive, but they are often busy, and it is hard to get to the shop when you are busy working. If you are interested in changing your car’s oil yourself, there are things you should know. First of all most cars are pretty much the same in this regard. If you have changed one car’s oil you can probably change it in most cars. While the oil pan may be located in a different area of each individual model it is generally on the bottom of the vehicle. Below are a few tips that will help you make this task easier.
You will need at least six quarts of oil. Preferably you should use the same type of oil as you had in the engine before.
You will also need to purchase a new oil filter designed specifically for the model of your car.
During an oil change most people also change the air filters on their cars. The air filter tends to become dirty in about the same time as the oil needs changing, especially on older model vehicles. Therefore it may not be a bad idea to purchase an air filter as well.
If you have not done any prior work on the vehicle at home, you will need to purchase a car jack or tire racks. These racks allow you to drive up on them to elevate the front end of the car where you will be working. If you are using a jack or the racks you will need to place blocks behind the other two tires to keep the car from rolling because the parking brakes do not always hold the grip reliably.Make sure that the parking brakes are on and that the transmission is in park position. You need to elevate the car so that the oil will run out of the oil pan completely as well as make it easier for you to reach the oil pan.
Prepare a canister or a pan to catch the oil in. Most auto parts shops including those online will have oil pans that you can drain the oil into. These pans have a special design to make disposing of the oil into an oil drum easy.
You will also need an oil filter wrench. This wrench must be the correct wrench for the size of filter you have. There are many sizes depending on the type of car you have.Another tool you will need is the wrench for the oil pan nut. This nut has to be removed to let the oil escape. This is usually a metric or standard wrench depending on who manufactured your car. The best tool for this job is a socket wrench.
Once you have all of the tools and other items you will need to locate the oil pan. It is best to look in your car’s manual for this information. Keep plenty of towels on hand as well.
First, loosen the nut on the oil pan, making sure that you are prepared for the first gush of oil by having the waste pan underneath the oil pan.
Next, locate the oil fill cap and remove it. Some manuals may tell you to do this first. I have found that this creates more of a gush if you wait to remove the hexagonal nut after, so the potential for a spill is higher.
Once you have gotten the oil flowing out of the vehicle you can then set a bucket just under the oil filter. There will be a little oil drainage from the filter so having the bucket under there will help keep you from causing a spill. Once you have removed the old filter you can then ***** on the new filter following the instructions on the box.
Now that you have removed all of the oil from your vehicle you will need to make sure that you replace the hexagonal nut on the oil pan and make sure that the oil filter is screwed on tight. Then, you can begin replacing the oil. It is best to fill the engine with at least four quarts of oil and then let it settle. Check the engine oil level and then add a quart until it is full. Check with your manual on the exact amount of oil required for the engine.
Source: http://www.abccarparts.com/
DEVIN
Sep
26
Filed Under (Automotive) by oil
Tim LaGanke, Jr. asked:
An oil change franchise enables you, the investor or “franchisee”, to operate a well-known oil change business from a larger company, or “franchisor”. This allows the franchisee to use the franchisor’s name for limited time, along with some assistance and possibly limitations.
You will find that some oil change franchisor’s are not very picky about who buys into their oil change franchise. Most of the time, all an oil change franchisor will care about is whether or not you can pay the fees, and, assuming you have a spotless legal record, they will usually trust you to do the work. These particular oil change franchisors will give the oil change franchisee a lot of freedom to develop his or her branch of the business their way, but they may not offer too much help when a great need arises. Then there is the other extreme of an oil change franchisor who will constantly micro-manage the franchisee, and will go to great lengths to insure a great number of checklists and communication are taking place.
Oil Change Franchise Cost
You will have to pay a franchise fee, and you will then be given a system developed by the company, or “franchisor”. Any oil change franchise (as well as any franchise, in general) are required, by law, to present the franchisee a document called the Uniform Franchise Circular Offering (UFOC). The UFOC outlines the franchisee’s fees, as well as their individual rights and restrictions.
The franchise fee is really only the beginning cost, as you will also need to pay for real estate deposits, utilities, supplies, insurance, office equipment, site preparation, site building, advertising, licenses, permits, legal, plus operating capital. All these costs plus expenses can equal two to three hundred thousand dollars or higher. A buyer should consider a lawyer if he or she wishes to negotiate the contract of the franchisor. If a buyer needs to apply for a loan, there are many SBA loans that are easily available for those in the market for an oil change franchise.
As you can see, you will definitely need a lot of money before you buy into an oil change franchise. However, you should be able to make up for the expense with the percentage of gross profits. It may take a while before you make some “real money” from this investment.
Therefore, in order to maximize on your profits of your oil change franchise, there are a few factors you need to consider: market, name-recognition, and staff.
The Current Market
Look at where you want to open your oil change franchise, and ask yourself if there are already plenty of places where customers can get their oil changed. You don’t want to open up an oil change franchise where there are already several available. After all, most people in that area will have already developed a relationship with their current oil change station. However, this may be a love/hate relationship. If you want to start your oil change franchise in an area surrounded by “healthy competition”, you should ask the people in the area what they think about the oil change businesses that they use. Keep your ears open to the usual complaints, such as: “they charge too much”, or “the service wasn’t good”, or “they take too long”. One of the favorite complaints of oil change franchises is when a customer takes the car in for what he or she believes to be a simple oil change, but the mechanic ends up recommending other high-priced (and sometimes unnecessary) repairs to the vehicle.
Once you know the weaknesses of the other oil change businesses, ask yourself a few questions to see if you can fill a need that your competition can’t.
Can you do an oil change in less time? Most customers want to be in-and-out of their oil change in less than an hour, some as soon as ten or fifteen minutes. If you know a way that you can do a quality job and shave off a few minutes less than the competition, then you have a definite edge.
Can you perform an oil change at a substantially lower price? If Wal-Mart has taught us anything, it’s that customers are most attracted to the product that dents their pocketbooks the least. You might be surprised how quickly the word gets out if your prices are substantially lower than your competition.
Can you offer a customer friendlier service? Believe it or not, customer service is often the least emphasized aspect of most businesses, but the one that actually brings in the most sales. You would be surprised at how much repeat business you will receive if you show a customer that you care about them. Even businesses that charge higher and do a bad job can succeed if they have friendly people working there.
Name-recognition
Before choosing an oil change franchise, you should check the name and reputation of the company. Feel free to call other businesses of that oil change franchise. Talk to the franchisor, and listen to their experiences. If they seem like they don’t want to talk about it, or seem rather discouraging, better move on to the next oil change franchise on the list.
If you haven’t learned this real-world business lesson yet, then listen now: a great name is no guarantee of high earnings. If you want to view the earnings of a particular oil change franchise, many of the oil change franchises will have earnings claims on their UFOC.
Name recognition is also helpful as a market strategy. If location is not important when starting your oil change franchise, you should consider starting one in an area where there are several successful oil change franchises of the same company. You should then establish your oil change franchise of same name somewhere on the outer edge, away from the other oil change franchises. The reputation of the other franchises will automatically boost your oil change franchise even before your base of operations is built.
Staff
Once you have franchising rights, you are probably going to have to hire the talent on your own. You are more than likely going to have to hire from whoever is the best in your immediate area. Unless you’re willing to go to other oil change businesses and head-hunt, you might have to resort to inexperienced labor. Fortunately, an oil change isn’t something that requires too much training, but many oil change franchises are also full-service businesses as well. You might need some prime mechanics, if you can get them. Hopefully, you know a few trustworthy people who know the ins and outs of a car, and would have no problem adapting to oil change for a living.
ADALBERTO
An oil change franchise enables you, the investor or “franchisee”, to operate a well-known oil change business from a larger company, or “franchisor”. This allows the franchisee to use the franchisor’s name for limited time, along with some assistance and possibly limitations.
You will find that some oil change franchisor’s are not very picky about who buys into their oil change franchise. Most of the time, all an oil change franchisor will care about is whether or not you can pay the fees, and, assuming you have a spotless legal record, they will usually trust you to do the work. These particular oil change franchisors will give the oil change franchisee a lot of freedom to develop his or her branch of the business their way, but they may not offer too much help when a great need arises. Then there is the other extreme of an oil change franchisor who will constantly micro-manage the franchisee, and will go to great lengths to insure a great number of checklists and communication are taking place.
Oil Change Franchise Cost
You will have to pay a franchise fee, and you will then be given a system developed by the company, or “franchisor”. Any oil change franchise (as well as any franchise, in general) are required, by law, to present the franchisee a document called the Uniform Franchise Circular Offering (UFOC). The UFOC outlines the franchisee’s fees, as well as their individual rights and restrictions.
The franchise fee is really only the beginning cost, as you will also need to pay for real estate deposits, utilities, supplies, insurance, office equipment, site preparation, site building, advertising, licenses, permits, legal, plus operating capital. All these costs plus expenses can equal two to three hundred thousand dollars or higher. A buyer should consider a lawyer if he or she wishes to negotiate the contract of the franchisor. If a buyer needs to apply for a loan, there are many SBA loans that are easily available for those in the market for an oil change franchise.
As you can see, you will definitely need a lot of money before you buy into an oil change franchise. However, you should be able to make up for the expense with the percentage of gross profits. It may take a while before you make some “real money” from this investment.
Therefore, in order to maximize on your profits of your oil change franchise, there are a few factors you need to consider: market, name-recognition, and staff.
The Current Market
Look at where you want to open your oil change franchise, and ask yourself if there are already plenty of places where customers can get their oil changed. You don’t want to open up an oil change franchise where there are already several available. After all, most people in that area will have already developed a relationship with their current oil change station. However, this may be a love/hate relationship. If you want to start your oil change franchise in an area surrounded by “healthy competition”, you should ask the people in the area what they think about the oil change businesses that they use. Keep your ears open to the usual complaints, such as: “they charge too much”, or “the service wasn’t good”, or “they take too long”. One of the favorite complaints of oil change franchises is when a customer takes the car in for what he or she believes to be a simple oil change, but the mechanic ends up recommending other high-priced (and sometimes unnecessary) repairs to the vehicle.
Once you know the weaknesses of the other oil change businesses, ask yourself a few questions to see if you can fill a need that your competition can’t.
Can you do an oil change in less time? Most customers want to be in-and-out of their oil change in less than an hour, some as soon as ten or fifteen minutes. If you know a way that you can do a quality job and shave off a few minutes less than the competition, then you have a definite edge.
Can you perform an oil change at a substantially lower price? If Wal-Mart has taught us anything, it’s that customers are most attracted to the product that dents their pocketbooks the least. You might be surprised how quickly the word gets out if your prices are substantially lower than your competition.
Can you offer a customer friendlier service? Believe it or not, customer service is often the least emphasized aspect of most businesses, but the one that actually brings in the most sales. You would be surprised at how much repeat business you will receive if you show a customer that you care about them. Even businesses that charge higher and do a bad job can succeed if they have friendly people working there.
Name-recognition
Before choosing an oil change franchise, you should check the name and reputation of the company. Feel free to call other businesses of that oil change franchise. Talk to the franchisor, and listen to their experiences. If they seem like they don’t want to talk about it, or seem rather discouraging, better move on to the next oil change franchise on the list.
If you haven’t learned this real-world business lesson yet, then listen now: a great name is no guarantee of high earnings. If you want to view the earnings of a particular oil change franchise, many of the oil change franchises will have earnings claims on their UFOC.
Name recognition is also helpful as a market strategy. If location is not important when starting your oil change franchise, you should consider starting one in an area where there are several successful oil change franchises of the same company. You should then establish your oil change franchise of same name somewhere on the outer edge, away from the other oil change franchises. The reputation of the other franchises will automatically boost your oil change franchise even before your base of operations is built.
Staff
Once you have franchising rights, you are probably going to have to hire the talent on your own. You are more than likely going to have to hire from whoever is the best in your immediate area. Unless you’re willing to go to other oil change businesses and head-hunt, you might have to resort to inexperienced labor. Fortunately, an oil change isn’t something that requires too much training, but many oil change franchises are also full-service businesses as well. You might need some prime mechanics, if you can get them. Hopefully, you know a few trustworthy people who know the ins and outs of a car, and would have no problem adapting to oil change for a living.
ADALBERTO
Mar
31
Robert Riley asked:
If you watch or listen to the news, discussions come up all the time about the price of a barrel of oil and the cost of fuel at the gas pump. The sale of large SUV’s has plummeted and manufacturers have been giving huge rebates to manufacturers just to get rid of them. With gas prices climbing, people are seeking other ways to save on fuel such as buying small or mid-size SUV’s, smaller cars or Hybrids. When listening to the news, you may also hear about alternative fuels such as E85, Hydrogen or anything else to reduce or dependency on foreign oil.
Crude oil is pulled from the ground and sent to refineries to create our fuel. The sludge that is left at the refinery is then used to create oil to lubricate the internals of the engines in our vehicles. Did you know that conventional oil from the ground is full of impurities, paraffin’s and waxes? Crude oil from the ground has millions of different kinds of molecules. Many of these molecules are similar in weight but not in structure. Refining the oil does not remove all of the critical impurities. The lubrication and performance qualities of refined petroleum are limited. The refining process cannot distinguish such molecules, so a wide assortment of molecules is present in the finished lubricant made from crude oil. Many of the molecules from the crude oil contain paraffin (a wax-like substance harmful to your engine), which cause the lubrication to thicken and flow very poorly in cold temperatures. There is also sulfur, nitrogen and other nasty elements in refined crude oil that cause the build up of sludge and varnish inside of an engine. The sludge and break down of molecules are what significantly cause wear and breakdown of the oil in your engine.
That same crude oil is also used to make tar for the roads. Is that something you want lubricating your engine? The automobile manufacturers and car dealerships seem to think so. That low-cost conventional oil guarantees profits all across the board. How is this possible? Manufacturers like the low quality oil because it’s just good enough to get a car to get passed the warranty period before major wear starts to be noticeable, such as your valve guides wearing out. That’s when you see that puff of smoke when you first start your car in the morning once you have put high mileage on it. Since conventional oil is loaded with all of these impurities and non-uniform molecules, it breaks down quickly and creates sludge and varnish; hence you need to change it at approximately 3,000 miles. This is a perfect excuse to create foot traffic at the dealership and the quick lubes. The last thing the dealerships or quick lubes want is a long lasting oil or an oil that will extend the life of an engine or transmission. Marc Graham, the president of Jiffy Lube, stated in an article that if they could get their customers to shorten their drain interval by only 100 miles (changing the oil at 2,900 instead of 3,000 miles), that it would mean an extra $20 million dollars in revenue for the company each year. If they could get all of their customers to get one extra oil change per year, the company could make an extra $294 million. I hope you can now see their motivation for the short intervals. It’s in their best interest, not yours.
Here’s your chance to participate in the movement to reduce the need for foreign oil dependency.
Not only can you reduce to dependency on the importing of oil, you can also save at the pump while doing it. On top of that, you can also dramatically extend the life of your engine and transmission, and that folks, is definitely not on the agenda of the vehicle manufacturers. The hidden agenda of the auto manufacturers is to have your drive train wear out after the warranty period so you can keep coming back to buy more vehicles. It is not in their best interest for any vehicle manufacturer or mechanic to tell you how to extend the engine life of your vehicle. If they told you how to get your engine to last longer, they would kill their profit margin.
So how you can reduce the foreign oil dependency?
That’s easy. Stop buying conventional petroleum oil to lubricate your engine, transmission and axles. The next time you are due for an oil change, only buy synthetic oil. And don’t buy the “blends” as they have all of those nasty impurities that I just mentioned above by mixing synthetic with conventional. Just buy 100% synthetic. You don’t want any additional impurities in your engine.
But synthetic oils are expensive! That’s why I have been buying conventional oil in the first place.
That is the biggest myth. If you use 100% synthetics in your entire drive train, synthetic oil can end up costing you nothing. How can that be, you ask?
First let me explain the benefits and then I will do the math. fully synthetic oils are chemically engineered from pure chemicals rather than from crude oil. Fully synthetic oils do not contain that nasty sulfur, nitrogen and other elements that can cause sludge and varnish in your engine that conventional oils do. Fully synthetic oils also have a much higher flash point and can handle much higher temperatures than conventional oil without breaking down. Since their resistance to break down is dramatically reduced, they can be used for a much longer timeframe than conventional oils. Fully synthetic oils stay much cleaner and last significantly longer than conventional oils. Unlike conventional oils, fully synthetic oils have uniform molecules which ensure low friction as the lubricant layers slide across each other (which is what you want in your hot running mechanical engine.)
If they can land a space ship on the moon, can’t they make an oil last longer than 3,000 miles?
You bet they can and they do just that.
So what are the financial advantages of spending a little more money on a quart of oil?
For one, 100% fully synthetic oils can last up to 11 times longer than conventional oil depending on the vehicle, application and fuel type. A small company called Amsoil is the only company that has such long lasting motor oils. The Amsoil corporation is the very first company in the United States to make synthetic motor oil for passenger cars, years before Mobil 1, Havoline, Valvoline, Castrol or any of the other big-named companies. Amsoil owns the trademark for the phrase “First in Synthetics” because of this. The thing is that most people don’t know is that Amsoil is the only company that makes motor oil last up to an incredible 1-year or 35,000 miles and has been doing this since 1972. This oil is guaranteed in writing.
If fully synthetic oils can last up to 11x longer and can virtually eliminate wear in your drive train, then what are the benefits of using conventional oil?
Well, not a whole heck of a lot. Their initial low cost gets people to buy them. Using it for engine break-in to help seat valves and other components during the first several hundred miles. Other than that, it’s actually costing you a lot of money to keep using conventional oil. Look what happens to a transmission once you put high mileage on it while using conventional transmission fluid. You can end up spending $1,500, $2,000 or even more on rebuilding a transmission on a passenger car. If you would have had used a fully synthetic transmission fluid which resists heat and break down of molecules, you could potentially eliminate that need for a transmission rebuild. For every 20 degrees above 175 degrees, your transmission life is CUT IN HALF! When facing up to $2,000 on a repair bill, do you really want to risk that chance by sticking with old school crude oil?
Other savings of switching to synthetics are the fuel mileage increase that most everyone notices. I will give you an example in my own personal vehicle. I was initially getting 22 MPG on the highway with my car with conventional oils. I switched over my engine, transmission and rear differential over to Amsoil’s synthetics. Afterwards, I realized a gain of 4 MPG due to the reduced friction of the synthetics. I paid approximately $250 (including labor costs) to have all of my fluids changed over. That change over lasts up to 1 year on the oil and several years for the other fluids. At the time of my tests, fuel was $3.19/gallon for premium that I was using. That same $250 is close to what I would pay for a year’s worth of oil changes at a quick lube for conventional oil, but with conventional oil, I’d still be getting 22 MPG, not the 4 MPG increase from synthetics.
When driving 2,000 miles per month at 22 MPG, that comes out to 90 gallons of fuel per month.
With the increase in gas mileage to 26 MPG, the same 2,000 miles per month now only uses 76 gallons of fuel. That’s $44 per month that I saved right there. $44 x 12 months = $535 per year in fuel savings.
That’s not too bad of an investment. Not only am I saving money on the fuel (actually saving more at the pump than I paid for all of the oil, which basically makes the oil free when you do the math), I am also saving on time because the oil changes last up to 1 year or 35,000 miles before I have to get them drained. Not to mention the fact that I am cheating the manufacturers planned obsolescence of my vehicle. By using the 100% fully synthetics, my drive train will now last much longer than what the manufacturer designed it to last for.
And to think… that’s just for me. Imagine if I owned a company with a fleet of vehicles. How much money would I save then? Our governments could save millions of dollars if they sat down and ran the numbers in spreadsheets to figure out savings over time. That’s millions of dollars of our hard earned tax dollars being saved. Think of all of the police cars and utility vehicles that the governments currently use that could keep going for an extra few years before getting rid of them as long as their engines ran like new (which they typically do when using synthetic oils in the drive trains.) Those long-term benefits and savings are not thought about when using conventional oil.
Let’s look at how much oil is saved on an annual basis. If I drove 1 year on 6 quarts of fully synthetic oil for 24,000 miles, if I would have done it the old way, I would have had to get 8 oil changes and use up 48 quarts of oil to travel the same distance. That’s 48 quarts of oil imported from another country. By using the fully synthetic oil, I have saved the country 48 quarts of oil that I did not have to use for the year.
But how many people drive 24,000 miles in a year? LOTS! With the crazy prices of homes, people have been moving farther and farther out to the suburbs. Over 50% of the people are driving more than 1 hour to get to work just to live in affordable housing. If everyone stopped using conventional oil for their cars, the demand would go down and the price of fuel would most likely plummet. If gas prices went down like crazy, then the sales of large SUV’s such as Hummers, Chevy Tahoe’s and Ford Expeditions would probably dramatically increase.
Visit this Synthetic Motor Oil web site for more important information about cheating your engine’s planned obsolescence and synthetic oil dealership opportunities.
CLAIR
If you watch or listen to the news, discussions come up all the time about the price of a barrel of oil and the cost of fuel at the gas pump. The sale of large SUV’s has plummeted and manufacturers have been giving huge rebates to manufacturers just to get rid of them. With gas prices climbing, people are seeking other ways to save on fuel such as buying small or mid-size SUV’s, smaller cars or Hybrids. When listening to the news, you may also hear about alternative fuels such as E85, Hydrogen or anything else to reduce or dependency on foreign oil.
Crude oil is pulled from the ground and sent to refineries to create our fuel. The sludge that is left at the refinery is then used to create oil to lubricate the internals of the engines in our vehicles. Did you know that conventional oil from the ground is full of impurities, paraffin’s and waxes? Crude oil from the ground has millions of different kinds of molecules. Many of these molecules are similar in weight but not in structure. Refining the oil does not remove all of the critical impurities. The lubrication and performance qualities of refined petroleum are limited. The refining process cannot distinguish such molecules, so a wide assortment of molecules is present in the finished lubricant made from crude oil. Many of the molecules from the crude oil contain paraffin (a wax-like substance harmful to your engine), which cause the lubrication to thicken and flow very poorly in cold temperatures. There is also sulfur, nitrogen and other nasty elements in refined crude oil that cause the build up of sludge and varnish inside of an engine. The sludge and break down of molecules are what significantly cause wear and breakdown of the oil in your engine.
That same crude oil is also used to make tar for the roads. Is that something you want lubricating your engine? The automobile manufacturers and car dealerships seem to think so. That low-cost conventional oil guarantees profits all across the board. How is this possible? Manufacturers like the low quality oil because it’s just good enough to get a car to get passed the warranty period before major wear starts to be noticeable, such as your valve guides wearing out. That’s when you see that puff of smoke when you first start your car in the morning once you have put high mileage on it. Since conventional oil is loaded with all of these impurities and non-uniform molecules, it breaks down quickly and creates sludge and varnish; hence you need to change it at approximately 3,000 miles. This is a perfect excuse to create foot traffic at the dealership and the quick lubes. The last thing the dealerships or quick lubes want is a long lasting oil or an oil that will extend the life of an engine or transmission. Marc Graham, the president of Jiffy Lube, stated in an article that if they could get their customers to shorten their drain interval by only 100 miles (changing the oil at 2,900 instead of 3,000 miles), that it would mean an extra $20 million dollars in revenue for the company each year. If they could get all of their customers to get one extra oil change per year, the company could make an extra $294 million. I hope you can now see their motivation for the short intervals. It’s in their best interest, not yours.
Here’s your chance to participate in the movement to reduce the need for foreign oil dependency.
Not only can you reduce to dependency on the importing of oil, you can also save at the pump while doing it. On top of that, you can also dramatically extend the life of your engine and transmission, and that folks, is definitely not on the agenda of the vehicle manufacturers. The hidden agenda of the auto manufacturers is to have your drive train wear out after the warranty period so you can keep coming back to buy more vehicles. It is not in their best interest for any vehicle manufacturer or mechanic to tell you how to extend the engine life of your vehicle. If they told you how to get your engine to last longer, they would kill their profit margin.
So how you can reduce the foreign oil dependency?
That’s easy. Stop buying conventional petroleum oil to lubricate your engine, transmission and axles. The next time you are due for an oil change, only buy synthetic oil. And don’t buy the “blends” as they have all of those nasty impurities that I just mentioned above by mixing synthetic with conventional. Just buy 100% synthetic. You don’t want any additional impurities in your engine.
But synthetic oils are expensive! That’s why I have been buying conventional oil in the first place.
That is the biggest myth. If you use 100% synthetics in your entire drive train, synthetic oil can end up costing you nothing. How can that be, you ask?
First let me explain the benefits and then I will do the math. fully synthetic oils are chemically engineered from pure chemicals rather than from crude oil. Fully synthetic oils do not contain that nasty sulfur, nitrogen and other elements that can cause sludge and varnish in your engine that conventional oils do. Fully synthetic oils also have a much higher flash point and can handle much higher temperatures than conventional oil without breaking down. Since their resistance to break down is dramatically reduced, they can be used for a much longer timeframe than conventional oils. Fully synthetic oils stay much cleaner and last significantly longer than conventional oils. Unlike conventional oils, fully synthetic oils have uniform molecules which ensure low friction as the lubricant layers slide across each other (which is what you want in your hot running mechanical engine.)
If they can land a space ship on the moon, can’t they make an oil last longer than 3,000 miles?
You bet they can and they do just that.
So what are the financial advantages of spending a little more money on a quart of oil?
For one, 100% fully synthetic oils can last up to 11 times longer than conventional oil depending on the vehicle, application and fuel type. A small company called Amsoil is the only company that has such long lasting motor oils. The Amsoil corporation is the very first company in the United States to make synthetic motor oil for passenger cars, years before Mobil 1, Havoline, Valvoline, Castrol or any of the other big-named companies. Amsoil owns the trademark for the phrase “First in Synthetics” because of this. The thing is that most people don’t know is that Amsoil is the only company that makes motor oil last up to an incredible 1-year or 35,000 miles and has been doing this since 1972. This oil is guaranteed in writing.
If fully synthetic oils can last up to 11x longer and can virtually eliminate wear in your drive train, then what are the benefits of using conventional oil?
Well, not a whole heck of a lot. Their initial low cost gets people to buy them. Using it for engine break-in to help seat valves and other components during the first several hundred miles. Other than that, it’s actually costing you a lot of money to keep using conventional oil. Look what happens to a transmission once you put high mileage on it while using conventional transmission fluid. You can end up spending $1,500, $2,000 or even more on rebuilding a transmission on a passenger car. If you would have had used a fully synthetic transmission fluid which resists heat and break down of molecules, you could potentially eliminate that need for a transmission rebuild. For every 20 degrees above 175 degrees, your transmission life is CUT IN HALF! When facing up to $2,000 on a repair bill, do you really want to risk that chance by sticking with old school crude oil?
Other savings of switching to synthetics are the fuel mileage increase that most everyone notices. I will give you an example in my own personal vehicle. I was initially getting 22 MPG on the highway with my car with conventional oils. I switched over my engine, transmission and rear differential over to Amsoil’s synthetics. Afterwards, I realized a gain of 4 MPG due to the reduced friction of the synthetics. I paid approximately $250 (including labor costs) to have all of my fluids changed over. That change over lasts up to 1 year on the oil and several years for the other fluids. At the time of my tests, fuel was $3.19/gallon for premium that I was using. That same $250 is close to what I would pay for a year’s worth of oil changes at a quick lube for conventional oil, but with conventional oil, I’d still be getting 22 MPG, not the 4 MPG increase from synthetics.
When driving 2,000 miles per month at 22 MPG, that comes out to 90 gallons of fuel per month.
With the increase in gas mileage to 26 MPG, the same 2,000 miles per month now only uses 76 gallons of fuel. That’s $44 per month that I saved right there. $44 x 12 months = $535 per year in fuel savings.
That’s not too bad of an investment. Not only am I saving money on the fuel (actually saving more at the pump than I paid for all of the oil, which basically makes the oil free when you do the math), I am also saving on time because the oil changes last up to 1 year or 35,000 miles before I have to get them drained. Not to mention the fact that I am cheating the manufacturers planned obsolescence of my vehicle. By using the 100% fully synthetics, my drive train will now last much longer than what the manufacturer designed it to last for.
And to think… that’s just for me. Imagine if I owned a company with a fleet of vehicles. How much money would I save then? Our governments could save millions of dollars if they sat down and ran the numbers in spreadsheets to figure out savings over time. That’s millions of dollars of our hard earned tax dollars being saved. Think of all of the police cars and utility vehicles that the governments currently use that could keep going for an extra few years before getting rid of them as long as their engines ran like new (which they typically do when using synthetic oils in the drive trains.) Those long-term benefits and savings are not thought about when using conventional oil.
Let’s look at how much oil is saved on an annual basis. If I drove 1 year on 6 quarts of fully synthetic oil for 24,000 miles, if I would have done it the old way, I would have had to get 8 oil changes and use up 48 quarts of oil to travel the same distance. That’s 48 quarts of oil imported from another country. By using the fully synthetic oil, I have saved the country 48 quarts of oil that I did not have to use for the year.
But how many people drive 24,000 miles in a year? LOTS! With the crazy prices of homes, people have been moving farther and farther out to the suburbs. Over 50% of the people are driving more than 1 hour to get to work just to live in affordable housing. If everyone stopped using conventional oil for their cars, the demand would go down and the price of fuel would most likely plummet. If gas prices went down like crazy, then the sales of large SUV’s such as Hummers, Chevy Tahoe’s and Ford Expeditions would probably dramatically increase.
Visit this Synthetic Motor Oil web site for more important information about cheating your engine’s planned obsolescence and synthetic oil dealership opportunities.
CLAIR
Dec
25
Filed Under (Automotive) by oil
Robert Holland asked:
Would you like to change your vehicle oil only once a year or 25,000 miles whichever comes first, better protect your engine, save substantial money, get up to 8% better gas mileage, and help the environment by reducing waste oil by a factor of eight. All this can be done by a simple switch to the best synthetic oils and filters available today while enhancing your engine’s performance and protection.
Let’s first look at the economics of the oil change business. In some cases the auto repair and quick lube businesses use the oil change as a lost leader to be able to sell you the higher margin products they carry, such as; fan belts, air filters, PVC valves, windshield wipers, fuel filters, transmission oil changes, etc. They want you to come back every 3,000 miles to give your contributions to their cash flow. They take advantage of women, in particular, by selling them items that they could probably do without. The following will give you an idea of the direct savings by using premium synthetic oils. Conventional petroleum based oil with a 3,000-mile drain interval for 25,000 miles per year will cost you $148.00 (8 changes per year). Premium Synthetic Oil with a 25,000 mile drain interval (1 change per year) will cost you only $51.55.
Right away your saving, $96.45 per year on your oil change, 7 trips to the quick lube (your time and inconvenience), improved gas mileage, and reduced vehicle maintenance. 25000milemotoroil.com has further information on the synthetic oil products.
Most people do not want to change because they have been thoroughly indoctrinated to the 3,000-mile oil change interval. Let’s change this falsehood because it is not good for our pocketbooks, the environment, or our dependence on foreign oil. The lubricating oil consumption in the US is estimated to be approximately 2.7 billion gallons by 2008. If everyone used premium synthetic oil, the US could save 2.315 billion gallons or 42 million 55 gallon drums of lubricating oil per year. If the 42 million drums were stacked end to end they would go for 23,863 miles or almost completely around the earth.
There is still another used and proven technology available to us today where we can eliminate oil changes altogether. This technology is the By-Pass Oil Filtration System that can be installed in all vehicles. This system uses two filters, a full flow filter and a by-pass filter. These are high quality nano-fiber filters that can eliminate particles below one micron in diameter and water from your engine’s oil. Standard filters only remove particles down to 25 microns in size, but studies have shown that over 60% of all engine wear is caused by particles in the 5 to 20 micron range. This system is set up so the full flow filter provides the unrestricted flow that the engines needs, while 10% of the flow goes through the by-pass filter that removes the fine particles down to the one micron range. The oil capacity of the engine flows through the by-pass filter every five minutes while driving at approximately 45 miles per hour. Your engine oil is thoroughly and continuously cleaned every five minutes. A Mack truck with an E7-400 engine was driven over 400,000 miles without an oil change (only the oil filters were changed every 25,000 to 60,000 miles), the engine was torn down for inspection, and the engine wear was moderate and equivalent to the wear of an engine that had it’s oil changed every 15,000 miles with conventional oil. This is some testimony to the performance of premium synthetic oil.
The environmental impact of reducing our country’s lubricating oil consumption by 2.315 billion gallons is beyond our imagination and this environmental abatement can begin today if every one becomes aware of their ability to contribute by using premium synthetic oil and filtration products. The EPA estimates that 200,000,000 gallons of used oil are not disposed of properly each year. The cost of reclaiming and processing used oil is significant and affects all of us by higher prices and increased taxes. One gallon of improperly disposed of oil can render one million gallons of fresh water undrinkable.
The United States accounts for 26% of the world’s consumption of lubricating oils. The economic growth in China and other parts of the world will spike the requirement for lubricating oils which will greatly contribute to the contamination of the earth’s environment unless we make strides in using the most effective and efficient ways to keep our wheels in motion.
The United States uses an average of 385,000,000 gallons of gasoline each day. This amounts to 140,525,000,000 gallons of gasoline per year. If we can increase our gas mileage 4% by using premium synthetic oils we can save 5,621,000,000 gallons of gasoline a year. These are steps we can take now before we need to take bigger steps, such as going to a hydrogen infrastructure. Even with hydrogen replacing the gasoline, we will still need the lubricating oils to keep all the parts of our cars, trucks and equipment in motion without abrasion.
We can also do a better job of recycling our used oil. Do you know where our used oil goes now? Look at the following data.
40% is dumped on the ground or poured down the sewer.
21% is disposed of in our trash and goes to the landfills.
19% is reused for other purposes.
14% is recycled.
6% is burned.
With only 14% of our waste oil being recycled, there is a big opportunity to do more. It’s a total neglect to have 61% of our used and contaminated oil seeping back into our water ways and aquifers. You can help by using premium synthetic lubricating oils and having them properly disposed of when they are replenished. Reducing your oil consumption by a factor of 8 times is a tremendous help to the environment, your vehicle, and your wallet.
ALEJANDRO
Would you like to change your vehicle oil only once a year or 25,000 miles whichever comes first, better protect your engine, save substantial money, get up to 8% better gas mileage, and help the environment by reducing waste oil by a factor of eight. All this can be done by a simple switch to the best synthetic oils and filters available today while enhancing your engine’s performance and protection.
Let’s first look at the economics of the oil change business. In some cases the auto repair and quick lube businesses use the oil change as a lost leader to be able to sell you the higher margin products they carry, such as; fan belts, air filters, PVC valves, windshield wipers, fuel filters, transmission oil changes, etc. They want you to come back every 3,000 miles to give your contributions to their cash flow. They take advantage of women, in particular, by selling them items that they could probably do without. The following will give you an idea of the direct savings by using premium synthetic oils. Conventional petroleum based oil with a 3,000-mile drain interval for 25,000 miles per year will cost you $148.00 (8 changes per year). Premium Synthetic Oil with a 25,000 mile drain interval (1 change per year) will cost you only $51.55.
Right away your saving, $96.45 per year on your oil change, 7 trips to the quick lube (your time and inconvenience), improved gas mileage, and reduced vehicle maintenance. 25000milemotoroil.com has further information on the synthetic oil products.
Most people do not want to change because they have been thoroughly indoctrinated to the 3,000-mile oil change interval. Let’s change this falsehood because it is not good for our pocketbooks, the environment, or our dependence on foreign oil. The lubricating oil consumption in the US is estimated to be approximately 2.7 billion gallons by 2008. If everyone used premium synthetic oil, the US could save 2.315 billion gallons or 42 million 55 gallon drums of lubricating oil per year. If the 42 million drums were stacked end to end they would go for 23,863 miles or almost completely around the earth.
There is still another used and proven technology available to us today where we can eliminate oil changes altogether. This technology is the By-Pass Oil Filtration System that can be installed in all vehicles. This system uses two filters, a full flow filter and a by-pass filter. These are high quality nano-fiber filters that can eliminate particles below one micron in diameter and water from your engine’s oil. Standard filters only remove particles down to 25 microns in size, but studies have shown that over 60% of all engine wear is caused by particles in the 5 to 20 micron range. This system is set up so the full flow filter provides the unrestricted flow that the engines needs, while 10% of the flow goes through the by-pass filter that removes the fine particles down to the one micron range. The oil capacity of the engine flows through the by-pass filter every five minutes while driving at approximately 45 miles per hour. Your engine oil is thoroughly and continuously cleaned every five minutes. A Mack truck with an E7-400 engine was driven over 400,000 miles without an oil change (only the oil filters were changed every 25,000 to 60,000 miles), the engine was torn down for inspection, and the engine wear was moderate and equivalent to the wear of an engine that had it’s oil changed every 15,000 miles with conventional oil. This is some testimony to the performance of premium synthetic oil.
The environmental impact of reducing our country’s lubricating oil consumption by 2.315 billion gallons is beyond our imagination and this environmental abatement can begin today if every one becomes aware of their ability to contribute by using premium synthetic oil and filtration products. The EPA estimates that 200,000,000 gallons of used oil are not disposed of properly each year. The cost of reclaiming and processing used oil is significant and affects all of us by higher prices and increased taxes. One gallon of improperly disposed of oil can render one million gallons of fresh water undrinkable.
The United States accounts for 26% of the world’s consumption of lubricating oils. The economic growth in China and other parts of the world will spike the requirement for lubricating oils which will greatly contribute to the contamination of the earth’s environment unless we make strides in using the most effective and efficient ways to keep our wheels in motion.
The United States uses an average of 385,000,000 gallons of gasoline each day. This amounts to 140,525,000,000 gallons of gasoline per year. If we can increase our gas mileage 4% by using premium synthetic oils we can save 5,621,000,000 gallons of gasoline a year. These are steps we can take now before we need to take bigger steps, such as going to a hydrogen infrastructure. Even with hydrogen replacing the gasoline, we will still need the lubricating oils to keep all the parts of our cars, trucks and equipment in motion without abrasion.
We can also do a better job of recycling our used oil. Do you know where our used oil goes now? Look at the following data.
40% is dumped on the ground or poured down the sewer.
21% is disposed of in our trash and goes to the landfills.
19% is reused for other purposes.
14% is recycled.
6% is burned.
With only 14% of our waste oil being recycled, there is a big opportunity to do more. It’s a total neglect to have 61% of our used and contaminated oil seeping back into our water ways and aquifers. You can help by using premium synthetic lubricating oils and having them properly disposed of when they are replenished. Reducing your oil consumption by a factor of 8 times is a tremendous help to the environment, your vehicle, and your wallet.
ALEJANDRO
Sep
07
Filed Under (Automotive) by oil
Jeremy MacDonald asked:
Save at least $30 by changing your oil yourself every time. When it comes time to change the oil of your Ford Tempo, doing it yourself could save you up to $30 or more. How do you know when to change your oil?
Change your oil every 3000 miles or about every 3 months, whichever comes first. SAE 5W-30 motor oil is the preferred motor oil to use for all weathering conditions, but if you are like me and live in moderate to hot temperatures then SAE 10W-30 motor oil is also acceptable.
Never change your engine oil while the engine is hot. This should be common sense. If your engine is hot, wait 2 hours. You could suffer terrible burns from your car’s engine or oil drainage. We don’t want any hospital bills over here.
Locate your car’s oil pan drain plug. Place an oil pan underneath the plug so you don’t spill any oil on the ground. Unscrew the drain plug and let the oil drain out for about 20 minutes to ensure all oil has poured out. ***** the plug back in. If you start pouring oil in without the plug tightly fastened then you are in for a greasy mess.
Locate the oil filter, unscrew it, and take it off. The oil filter is the piece that is shaped like half a cylinder. Be careful because oil will want to leak out of it after you unscrew it so keep it upside down. Then ***** the new oil filter in.
Pour the correct amount of oil in for your vehicle. For a 2.3L engine, the oil amount should be 5 quarts. If you have a 2.3L engine, make sure the oil filter says FL-300. For 3.0L Tempo engines, you will want to put only 4.5 quarts of oil in, and make sure the oil filter says FL-400A.
If your car has a lot of miles on it (lets say +80,000), it might be a good idea to use oil that is specifically designed for cars with high mileage. I use Valvoline High Mileage and it seems to work pretty good for my 1993 Tempo (+120,000 mi).
A quick auto maintenance tip to keep in mind is to periodically check the ground underneath your parked vehicle. Look for any liquids that look like they are new. If it looks like fresh liquid, there could be a chance that it is coming from your car. Be sure to keep an eye the next time your car is parked for a while to confirm any suspicious liquid.
Just for reference, reddish liquid will be power steering fluid, brownish liquid will probably be oil, and if it is a bluish liquid it is most likely radiator coolant.
Check your oil level every couple of weeks. Make sure your oil level is within the regulated guidelines located at the bottom of your oil dip stick. Your dip stick is the stick with a round, usually colored ring at the top. All you do is pull it out, wipe off excess oil with a rag, stick it back in, pull it out again, hold it level, and decipher where the oil line stops.
Don’t be an idiot. Always properly dispose of any used oil. Local auto parts stores and service stations usually have a receptacle in the back of their store where you can recycle any used oil. Start recycling now before we jack Earth up anymore and there is nothing left to protect.
ERIK
Save at least $30 by changing your oil yourself every time. When it comes time to change the oil of your Ford Tempo, doing it yourself could save you up to $30 or more. How do you know when to change your oil?
Change your oil every 3000 miles or about every 3 months, whichever comes first. SAE 5W-30 motor oil is the preferred motor oil to use for all weathering conditions, but if you are like me and live in moderate to hot temperatures then SAE 10W-30 motor oil is also acceptable.
Never change your engine oil while the engine is hot. This should be common sense. If your engine is hot, wait 2 hours. You could suffer terrible burns from your car’s engine or oil drainage. We don’t want any hospital bills over here.
Locate your car’s oil pan drain plug. Place an oil pan underneath the plug so you don’t spill any oil on the ground. Unscrew the drain plug and let the oil drain out for about 20 minutes to ensure all oil has poured out. ***** the plug back in. If you start pouring oil in without the plug tightly fastened then you are in for a greasy mess.
Locate the oil filter, unscrew it, and take it off. The oil filter is the piece that is shaped like half a cylinder. Be careful because oil will want to leak out of it after you unscrew it so keep it upside down. Then ***** the new oil filter in.
Pour the correct amount of oil in for your vehicle. For a 2.3L engine, the oil amount should be 5 quarts. If you have a 2.3L engine, make sure the oil filter says FL-300. For 3.0L Tempo engines, you will want to put only 4.5 quarts of oil in, and make sure the oil filter says FL-400A.
If your car has a lot of miles on it (lets say +80,000), it might be a good idea to use oil that is specifically designed for cars with high mileage. I use Valvoline High Mileage and it seems to work pretty good for my 1993 Tempo (+120,000 mi).
A quick auto maintenance tip to keep in mind is to periodically check the ground underneath your parked vehicle. Look for any liquids that look like they are new. If it looks like fresh liquid, there could be a chance that it is coming from your car. Be sure to keep an eye the next time your car is parked for a while to confirm any suspicious liquid.
Just for reference, reddish liquid will be power steering fluid, brownish liquid will probably be oil, and if it is a bluish liquid it is most likely radiator coolant.
Check your oil level every couple of weeks. Make sure your oil level is within the regulated guidelines located at the bottom of your oil dip stick. Your dip stick is the stick with a round, usually colored ring at the top. All you do is pull it out, wipe off excess oil with a rag, stick it back in, pull it out again, hold it level, and decipher where the oil line stops.
Don’t be an idiot. Always properly dispose of any used oil. Local auto parts stores and service stations usually have a receptacle in the back of their store where you can recycle any used oil. Start recycling now before we jack Earth up anymore and there is nothing left to protect.
ERIK
May
18
Filed Under (Automotive) by oil
Tim LaGanke, Jr. asked:
Changing your vehicle’s oil regularly is the single most important thing you can do for your car. Regular oil changes will extend the life of your vehicle and enhance its performance. Because contaminants are regularly deposited into your car’s oil resulting in sludge that decreases your engine’s performance (and that will over time cause engine failure) frequent oil changes are a mandatory maintenance procedure.
Most people know that they should get an oil change approximately every three months or 3,000 miles, but less know that an oil change is something that can be done in their own driveway. Doing so can save about a hundred dollars per year, and is a great way to be active with and knowledgeable about your own transportation.
Oil Change Equipment
Before getting started with your oil change, make sure you have the following materials on hand. Many of these items are sold inexpensively and are great to have handy in any garage.
3/8-drive socket set
Combination metric wrench set, including both closed and open ended wrenches.
Oil filter wrench
Oil receptacle such as a pail or old kitchen pot
Two plastic milk containers with ***** on caps.
Oil funnel
Plastic Ziploc bag – 1 quart.
Several newspapers / old rags
Two pair latex gloves (optional)
A few bricks, concrete blocks or boulders.
New oil filter (see owner’s manual for specifications)
New oil to refill the engine. (The back page of your vehicle’s manual should indicate grade and number of quarts.) Quick Change Oil recommends the use of synthetic oil for oil changes, such as Castrol GTX.
Before you begin, be sure to have a planned method for disposing of your dirty oil. It is illegal to dispose of used motor oil improperly. Most oil change locations will accept dirty oil for disposal free of charge.
Oil Change Step 01: Warming Up
Identify a flat space to work in your drive way or garage for you to perform the oil change once you’ve driven your vehicle for a short distance. Driving around just enough to heat up the engine will liquefy the oil for an easier emptying.
Oil Change Step 02: Stationing
Turn off your engine, put the car in Neutral and set the emergency brake firmly in place. Place several bricks in front of each of the four tires to prevent them from moving.
Oil Change Step 03: Locating the drain plug
If there is not enough room to slide under your vehicle comfortably, you’ll need to jack it up using a hydraulic pump and settle it on jack stands. (Never mount your car on a jack only – you must use jack stands.) While beneath your vehicle, identify the drain plug by searching for the lowest piece to the ground. This piece will most commonly be the nut of the oil drain plug. To avoid confusion with the transmission fluid drain plug, feel the metal around it – the oil plug will usually be much hotter than the transmission plug. In some cases the drain plug is actually labeled. Call a friend or a local oil change company for direction if you’re still unsure.
Oil Change Step 04: Draining the oil
Set out several newspapers underneath your car, focusing more on the area directly beneath the oil drain. Once you’ve located the drain plug, choose the correct socket from your set by experimenting with each until you’ve found one that nicely fits over the nut. Then, using a lot of force, turn the socket counter clockwise to ***** the nut. If a socket doesn’t work, try a closed end wrench. Once the nut is cracked, loosen it carefully, using caution. Loosening the nut too much or too quickly will cause the oil to spill out. Place your oil receptacle underneath the plug making sure it is straight making sure the plug points sideways rather than straight down. A sideways pointing plug will cause the oil to empty all over instead of into your receptacle. Once correctly positioned, loosen the plug entirely. Most of the oil should drain in about two minutes.
Oil Change Step 05: Loosening the oil filter
Look up into the engine and locate the oil filter, which should look like an inverted cone. Retrieve your oil filter wrench, remove the socket from the socket wrench and set it next to the drain plug. Slip the oil filter wrench onto your socket wrench (it’s best to use a socket wrench with a short extension) and set it up to grab the filter in a counterclockwise motion. Tug on the filter slightly to loosen it. Again, caution is important because loosening the filter too quickly will spill out hot oil. Loosen a bit more using the wrench, and use your hands to remove it entirely. Make sure your face is clear of the area and pour the contents of the filter into the receptacle.
Oil Change Step 06: Removing the oil cap
Slide out from under your vehicle and open the hood. Locate the oil cap and remove it so that the oil can drain more quickly. If you have the time, wait an hour or so for all of the old oil to drain completely. This isn’t necessary, but is a good practice if you’re willing to wait.
Oil Change Step 07: Threading the new oil filter
Underneath your vehicle again, dip one gloved finger into the oil receptacle and coat the rubber edges of the new oil filter. This will help it adhere to the engine. With a clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil filter fits and put the new filter in place. By hand, tightening it should take about 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn. If it doesn’t tighten simply fit the wrench back onto the filter and tighten it the same manner it was loosened, but this time tightening in a clockwise motion.
Oil Change Step 08: Re-attaching the drain plug
At Quick Change Oil, we recommend using a new sealing washer on the drain plug when performing your own oil change. If you must use the old one, be sure to clean it prior to use. Put the washer in place and thread the drain plug back into its hole. Tighten it up with the socket set, but not so tight that removal will be difficult for the next oil change.
Oil Change Step 09: Replacing the oil
Before pouring the new oil into the spout underneath the hood, pour the content of the old oil into your milk bottle using the funnel. Wipe the funnel clean and seal the milk carton with its lid. Place the old oil filter into your Ziploc bag and set both aside for later disposal at your nearest recycling center such as your nearest Quick Change Oil location. Now place your clean funnel over the oil spout underneath your hood and deposit as many quarts of oil as directed by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Once the oil is emptied, replace the oil cap and close the hood.
Oil Change Step 10: Checking for leaks
Start your engine and let idle for 5 minutes. Make sure to look underneath your vehicle for oil leaks. If your vehicle is leaking, it’s probably best to have it corrected by an oil change station.
Remember that safety is paramount. If you have a friend who will accompany you, it’s best to perform your first oil change in the company of another person. Changing your own oil is a rewarding experience, but if you prefer to have it taken for you, make sure it’s done right. Choose an oil change company that uses high quality Castrol synthetic motor oil, the best oil, engineered for extreme heat extreme cold, frequent stop and go driving, towing heavy loads, and high speed.
BOBBY
Changing your vehicle’s oil regularly is the single most important thing you can do for your car. Regular oil changes will extend the life of your vehicle and enhance its performance. Because contaminants are regularly deposited into your car’s oil resulting in sludge that decreases your engine’s performance (and that will over time cause engine failure) frequent oil changes are a mandatory maintenance procedure.
Most people know that they should get an oil change approximately every three months or 3,000 miles, but less know that an oil change is something that can be done in their own driveway. Doing so can save about a hundred dollars per year, and is a great way to be active with and knowledgeable about your own transportation.
Oil Change Equipment
Before getting started with your oil change, make sure you have the following materials on hand. Many of these items are sold inexpensively and are great to have handy in any garage.
3/8-drive socket set
Combination metric wrench set, including both closed and open ended wrenches.
Oil filter wrench
Oil receptacle such as a pail or old kitchen pot
Two plastic milk containers with ***** on caps.
Oil funnel
Plastic Ziploc bag – 1 quart.
Several newspapers / old rags
Two pair latex gloves (optional)
A few bricks, concrete blocks or boulders.
New oil filter (see owner’s manual for specifications)
New oil to refill the engine. (The back page of your vehicle’s manual should indicate grade and number of quarts.) Quick Change Oil recommends the use of synthetic oil for oil changes, such as Castrol GTX.
Before you begin, be sure to have a planned method for disposing of your dirty oil. It is illegal to dispose of used motor oil improperly. Most oil change locations will accept dirty oil for disposal free of charge.
Oil Change Step 01: Warming Up
Identify a flat space to work in your drive way or garage for you to perform the oil change once you’ve driven your vehicle for a short distance. Driving around just enough to heat up the engine will liquefy the oil for an easier emptying.
Oil Change Step 02: Stationing
Turn off your engine, put the car in Neutral and set the emergency brake firmly in place. Place several bricks in front of each of the four tires to prevent them from moving.
Oil Change Step 03: Locating the drain plug
If there is not enough room to slide under your vehicle comfortably, you’ll need to jack it up using a hydraulic pump and settle it on jack stands. (Never mount your car on a jack only – you must use jack stands.) While beneath your vehicle, identify the drain plug by searching for the lowest piece to the ground. This piece will most commonly be the nut of the oil drain plug. To avoid confusion with the transmission fluid drain plug, feel the metal around it – the oil plug will usually be much hotter than the transmission plug. In some cases the drain plug is actually labeled. Call a friend or a local oil change company for direction if you’re still unsure.
Oil Change Step 04: Draining the oil
Set out several newspapers underneath your car, focusing more on the area directly beneath the oil drain. Once you’ve located the drain plug, choose the correct socket from your set by experimenting with each until you’ve found one that nicely fits over the nut. Then, using a lot of force, turn the socket counter clockwise to ***** the nut. If a socket doesn’t work, try a closed end wrench. Once the nut is cracked, loosen it carefully, using caution. Loosening the nut too much or too quickly will cause the oil to spill out. Place your oil receptacle underneath the plug making sure it is straight making sure the plug points sideways rather than straight down. A sideways pointing plug will cause the oil to empty all over instead of into your receptacle. Once correctly positioned, loosen the plug entirely. Most of the oil should drain in about two minutes.
Oil Change Step 05: Loosening the oil filter
Look up into the engine and locate the oil filter, which should look like an inverted cone. Retrieve your oil filter wrench, remove the socket from the socket wrench and set it next to the drain plug. Slip the oil filter wrench onto your socket wrench (it’s best to use a socket wrench with a short extension) and set it up to grab the filter in a counterclockwise motion. Tug on the filter slightly to loosen it. Again, caution is important because loosening the filter too quickly will spill out hot oil. Loosen a bit more using the wrench, and use your hands to remove it entirely. Make sure your face is clear of the area and pour the contents of the filter into the receptacle.
Oil Change Step 06: Removing the oil cap
Slide out from under your vehicle and open the hood. Locate the oil cap and remove it so that the oil can drain more quickly. If you have the time, wait an hour or so for all of the old oil to drain completely. This isn’t necessary, but is a good practice if you’re willing to wait.
Oil Change Step 07: Threading the new oil filter
Underneath your vehicle again, dip one gloved finger into the oil receptacle and coat the rubber edges of the new oil filter. This will help it adhere to the engine. With a clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil filter fits and put the new filter in place. By hand, tightening it should take about 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn. If it doesn’t tighten simply fit the wrench back onto the filter and tighten it the same manner it was loosened, but this time tightening in a clockwise motion.
Oil Change Step 08: Re-attaching the drain plug
At Quick Change Oil, we recommend using a new sealing washer on the drain plug when performing your own oil change. If you must use the old one, be sure to clean it prior to use. Put the washer in place and thread the drain plug back into its hole. Tighten it up with the socket set, but not so tight that removal will be difficult for the next oil change.
Oil Change Step 09: Replacing the oil
Before pouring the new oil into the spout underneath the hood, pour the content of the old oil into your milk bottle using the funnel. Wipe the funnel clean and seal the milk carton with its lid. Place the old oil filter into your Ziploc bag and set both aside for later disposal at your nearest recycling center such as your nearest Quick Change Oil location. Now place your clean funnel over the oil spout underneath your hood and deposit as many quarts of oil as directed by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Once the oil is emptied, replace the oil cap and close the hood.
Oil Change Step 10: Checking for leaks
Start your engine and let idle for 5 minutes. Make sure to look underneath your vehicle for oil leaks. If your vehicle is leaking, it’s probably best to have it corrected by an oil change station.
Remember that safety is paramount. If you have a friend who will accompany you, it’s best to perform your first oil change in the company of another person. Changing your own oil is a rewarding experience, but if you prefer to have it taken for you, make sure it’s done right. Choose an oil change company that uses high quality Castrol synthetic motor oil, the best oil, engineered for extreme heat extreme cold, frequent stop and go driving, towing heavy loads, and high speed.
BOBBY
